Day 19: Dwellingup to Swamp Oak
We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track
We walk mainly through forest again, with a little pine plantation to add variety.
To a non-botanist, this path is inviting, but a botanist will also rejoice in seeing such healthy banksias when so many are dying. A wonderful patch of forest at the start of the day!
Overview map of the day…
and leaving Dwellingup we feel as though we’re making progress on our 1000km journey.
It’s a day of climbs and descents, and so nice to have fresh legs after a rest day. And it’s heartening because I’m beginning to think that this hike is going to be doable. I hadn’t realised how much doubt is lurking within me until discomfort calls it forth. I’m also amazed by just how much a new discovery or view can replenish the tank: a new orchid powers me for several hours, as does a view. Chocolate does well too!
A cycling and running event is on so bikes are whizzing by on nearby trails, with lots of bunting in preparation for the run a bit later. We expect to see many runners but complete the section before they come through.
Caladenia nana ssp nana
Caladenia macrostylis
Walking through pine forest isn’t especially exciting for people who are interested in wildflowers because they are ecological deserts in Australia, but there’s a certain hushed pleasant ambience created by the pine needles that soaks up noise and the rain dripping from branches. Pine needles exude allelopathic chemicals that inhibit germination, which is why few plants grow under them.
But my goodness, some of these hills are steep. Everyone who hikes will know this position. This climb is much, much steeper than it appears from the picture. And it seems to go on forever!
And then more orchids (not in the pine forest, obviously!). The above very white form of Caladenia flava is stunning, just a little patch of them, and another patch of beautiful C x spectabilis hybrids between pink Caladenia latifolia and yellow Caladenia flava in every shade from salmon to orange. Wonderful!
You can’t hear it in this picture, of course, but the birdsong is a delight. Raucous black cockatoos have an evocative creaky call. We often hear what seem to be Mum and Dad talking to the kids, with a-aaaarrrk-arrrk and the youngsters’ peeeeep peeeeeep replies!
Plavins Lodge, with a little bench at the entrance. We are already almost at the hut!
Some magnificent Pterostylis vittata through here, and more of those strange insects. They look for all the world like mosquitoes but without the biting apparatus
And another little Pink Fingers, Caladenia nana ssp unita
It has been raining steadily and not only is the hut invitingly dry, but someone has lit a fire. We decide to see whether the rain eases before setting up.
It’s still very wet so we decide to sleep in the hut. We ordered tyvek as a tent footprint in Dwellingup but it won’t arrive till Collie.
Just look at those tent pads! Perfect!
… but we have our cosy nest, on the top bunk this time, and congenial company in the hut as well. Good times!
