This truly awe-inspiring hike links three trails in the central highlands of Iceland combining snow, ice, fire, volcanoes, lava and ash fields, waterfalls, glaciers, alpine lakes, rivers and steaming mudpots and hotsprings.

Hellismannaleid Trail: Rjupnavellir to Afangagil. The Hellismannaleid hike is typically a three day hike covering 59 km. It’s a quieter walk than most, one of the few wilderness walks left in Europe where you can go without seeing many people. And isolated and wild it is! Day 1 provides a spectacular, easy introduction to the story of the trek: rivers, waterfalls, ash plains, volcanoes and lava fields.

Hellismannaleid Trail: Afangagil to Landmannahellir. We see lava fields, wide gravel plains, and there is a challenging creek crossing. It’s a longer day than we originally planned because there are no suitable campsites before we reach the protected park area, so we have to reach Landmannahellir Huts – and the harsh Icelandic weather greets us. But we hardly notice the rain because the views are so engrossing!

Hellismannaleid trail: Landmannahellir to Landmannalaugar. Each day is more spectacular than the last. It rains on and off most of the time, and is very windy, but it really doesn’t matter. There are lakes and grassy fells and fog lifts just in time to enjoy the incredible scenery as we approach Landmannalaugar.

Hot bathing spring at Landmannalaugar campsite.

Laugavegur Trail: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker. A steep climb past mudpots and fumeroles and hot springs, then past spectacularly coloured earth and water, finishing with a snow crossing over a pass.

Laugavegur Trail: Hrafntinnusker to Hvanggil. The amazing view across Álftavatn from the highlands. The colours, steam and snow throughout this day were exceptional.

Laugavegur Trail: Hvanggil to Botnar Emstrur. We have time at the end of the day to also complete a delightful short loop walk with views along the remarkable Markarfljótsjgljúfu canyon as well as of Entujökull and Mýdalsjökull capping the mighty Katla.

Laugavegur Trail: Botnar/Emstrur to Þórsmörk. There are more canyons, with the magnificent Eyjaffjallajökull an ever-present backdrop. We detour to stay the night at Volcano Huts at Hasduladar rather than Langidalur: a hot shower, not to mention the bar, beckons!

Fimmvorduhals Trail: Volcano Huts to Baldvinsskali Hut. Another spectacular day. Snow, volcanoes, spines and different lava formations. The paths are very steep, without steps. There is one rather narrow, somewhat exposed section called the Cat’s Spine that I forgot to photograph because I was so nervous about it!

Fimmvorduhals Trail: Baldvinnskali to Skogar. This section brings waterfalls – 25 of them! Hailing from the driest state on the driest continent of Australia, we think this is pretty special! It will be almost entirely downhill, so easy walking, and there are spectacular views all the way.