Day 41: Beedelup to Pemberton and Rest Days 42-44
We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track
Climb Pemberton’s 58m (190ft) Gloucester Tree… if you dare!
Beedelup to Pemberton
Overview map
25 km with a surprising 420 m elevation gain. Use the Bibbulmun Track Foundation Map 5: Pemberton
Geoff’s algorithm counts this as a top ten day in terms of difficulty but don’t be too daunted - it is easier than the numbers would indicate as there are only a few short steep climbs, with the remainder steady and long. We had planned to split this day by stopping at the Big Brook Dam Arboretum campground, but the weather is so atrocious that we just put our heads down and forge on to Pemberton, where Hot Showers and Hot Food are waiting.
The forecast is for rain later - quite a lot of it - but, when we set out, sunlight dapples the rural landscape.
Philotheca spicata
Back into beautiful mixed forest and flatter terrain.
Orianthera serpyllifolia
It’s clouding over and we can see rain in the distance, but it’s holding off.
Shortly after this, the rain hits. Boy, does it ever!
jarrah forest in the rain
There are no pictures for a while until we reach this little shelter in the Arboretum for lunch. It’s tiny and it leaks but we are overjoyed! Geoff fires up the cooker for hot soup.
We are both cold - I’m damp, but Geoff is wet. The Visps have failed Geoff at shoulders, upper back, chest and waist, but it is an unfair test because he is carrying a non-ultralight pack of about 13-14 kg for which the Visp is not designed. However, I’m carrying under 10kg and I’m damp at shoulders and chest, and wet at the waist where the belt cinches. The location of the wet areas makes it clear most of it is rain rather than sweat, and this has not happened previously when wearing the jackets all day. We are both also wet (not saturated, but wet) through our pants at the front of the thighs where water sheets off our jackets.
Because the Visps are so breathable they dry fast, but the disadvantage is that they are not as warm as other, less breathable jackets. This is something to be aware of if using them in cold conditions. We will stick with our heavy three layer goretex in potentially dangerously cool places like the Tassie Highlands, but will use the Visps again for hikes such as this, as today is the first that they have failed out of many. They have performed exceptionally well in showery weather, where they have stayed waterproof and dried quickly between squalls.
Hot soup in a tiny, leaky shelter. Yay!!!
We decide to skip the Big Brook Dam Campground and instead continue on the paved path beside the dam. It’s bucketing down; there is no phone reception but we hope we’ll be able to book a room somewhere. This may be possible outside of school holidays or on a weekday, but not at other times. Fingers crossed.
A little bird hide shelter beside the dam. The floor is flooded inside.
A bleak Big Brook Dam. This part of the hike would be delightful in sunny weather! And no doubt very popular too but, today, we have it to ourselves.
Now just one more short sharp hill to climb…
… and here is Pemberton!
The sky is even more threatening than it has been all day. We catch up with a couple of our fellow hikers that night in Pemberton who reach town a little later and we hear that they were almost blown off their feet when the gust front associated with the approaching squall hit. But right now it hasn’t arrived and we stop at the visitor centre to pick up our resupply - rather to my surprise, we are there in plenty of time. Geoff is not surprised: it has been too wet to photograph flowers!
We’re 24 hours early, and haven’t had phone reception most of the day; no accommodation is arranged but the Visitor Centre staff ring our motel for us and yes, there is a room! All the Visitor Centres have been exceptionally helpful and many are staffed by volunteers as well as paid staff. They are a great asset to their towns and to us hikers.
Rest Days 42, 43 & 44, Pemberton
After deliciously hot showers and lots of food, we spend the next day doing washing and resupplying. Because Pemberton is the first town where we had booked three nights, we are now actually staying four with our early arrival and additional booking.
Resupply dinners. We have also packed lunches, snacks and breakfasts and, although some people decry this practice as not being sufficiently supportive of towns, we disagree. We buy all our meals while we are in town and we sleep a few nights there: I can tell you, we spend plenty! Other hikers support towns in other ways, perhaps a combination of both methods. There is no one right or wrong way to resupply: do whatever works best for you and your budget.
“Ladder” up the Gloucester Tree
The following day, we do a little “slackpacking”. This is when you are dropped somewhere without your pack, and then walk a section of track without it. This shortens the subsequent day as you can be dropped off to hike the remaining distance to the next hut, as an excellent way to make longer days easier.
One option is to get a taxi or, even better, the tram to The Cascades on the Bibbulmun Track south of town, and walk back from there. Another option is to catch a taxi to Pemberton’s famous Gloucester Tree, also on the track south of town. This amazing 58m (190ft) karri is the world's second tallest fire-lookout tree and, incredibly, the public is still allowed to climb up to a platform in its upper branches for views of the surrounding forest. How refreshing is that!
The rungs are initially open as they spiral up the trunk but, as you climb higher, a wire cage offers more protection.
You ascend past several platforms until you reach the very top.
Geoff peers down at the ground, such a very long way away!
Wonderful views across the treetops to the dunes on the coast. Marvellous stuff! And then it’s time for the climb down. As hang glider pilots, neither Geoff nor I are afraid of heights as such but, like any sane person, we are afraid of falling. We are wearing no harnesses, so one slip will lead to a nasty experience or worse. The descent is surprisingly nerve-wracking. When we reach the bottom, my legs are shaking and cramping - there was a lot more tension in them than I thought!
After that, we walk back into town along the Track. It’s been a lovely day, and we have yet another to come!
For our final night, we catch a taxi to our luxury accommodation just out of town.
Forest Lodge Resort has beautiful suites and self contained chalets in a forest setting with a picturesque lake. Dinner is Friday to Monday but, if you are happy to eat the chef’s choice and you ask very nicely, Ingo may whip you up one of his delicious meals, realising that hikers can’t pop into town for dinner.
After three days enjoying this lovely country town, we are refreshed and eager to get back on the track!
