Day 41: Beedelup to Pemberton and Rest Days 42-44

We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track

Gloucester Tree tall Karri Tree with metal stakes sticking out horizontally from the tree trunk forming informal ladder to top

Climb Pemberton’s 58m (190ft) Gloucester Tree… if you dare!

Aerial image overview of Bibbulmun Track the main track in blue, the section from Balingup to Pemberton in yellow and the days hike in red

Beedelup to Pemberton

Overview map

Aerial image of the days hike with elevation graph, track is in red

25 km with a surprising 420 m elevation gain. Use the Bibbulmun Track Foundation Map 5: Pemberton

Geoff’s algorithm counts this as a top ten day in terms of difficulty but don’t be too daunted - it is easier than the numbers would indicate as there are only a few short steep climbs, with the remainder steady and long. We had planned to split this day by stopping at the Big Brook Dam Arboretum campground, but the weather is so atrocious that we just put our heads down and forge on to Pemberton, where Hot Showers and Hot Food are waiting.

Green pasture in gently rolling hills

The forecast is for rain later - quite a lot of it - but, when we set out, sunlight dapples the rural landscape.

close up of tip of shrub branch with cluster of small purple start shaped flowers

Philotheca spicata

hiker on flat forestry track

Back into beautiful mixed forest and flatter terrain.

Small bush with pretty white star shaped flowers

Orianthera serpyllifolia

hiker with waterproof pack cover on looking across pastures towards a dark and threatening sky

It’s clouding over and we can see rain in the distance, but it’s holding off.

hiker on flattish wide track in forest partially sheltered from the heavy rain by the forest canopy

Shortly after this, the rain hits. Boy, does it ever!

hiker with full rain gear on in forest having just crossed small fast flowing creek

jarrah forest in the rain

Hiker sheltering under small timber shelter it just has leaky roof no sides

There are no pictures for a while until we reach this little shelter in the Arboretum for lunch. It’s tiny and it leaks but we are overjoyed! Geoff fires up the cooker for hot soup.

We are both cold - I’m damp, but Geoff is wet. The Visps have failed Geoff at shoulders, upper back, chest and waist, but it is an unfair test because he is carrying a non-ultralight pack of about 13-14 kg for which the Visp is not designed. However, I’m carrying under 10kg and I’m damp at shoulders and chest, and wet at the waist where the belt cinches. The location of the wet areas makes it clear most of it is rain rather than sweat, and this has not happened previously when wearing the jackets all day. We are both also wet (not saturated, but wet) through our pants at the front of the thighs where water sheets off our jackets.

Because the Visps are so breathable they dry fast, but the disadvantage is that they are not as warm as other, less breathable jackets. This is something to be aware of if using them in cold conditions. We will stick with our heavy three layer goretex in potentially dangerously cool places like the Tassie Highlands, but will use the Visps again for hikes such as this, as today is the first that they have failed out of many. They have performed exceptionally well in showery weather, where they have stayed waterproof and dried quickly between squalls.

smiling hiker in rain gear and beany under small shelter with cup of soup in hand

Hot soup in a tiny, leaky shelter. Yay!!!

hiker in rain gear on bitumen well graded very wet path

We decide to skip the Big Brook Dam Campground and instead continue on the paved path beside the dam. It’s bucketing down; there is no phone reception but we hope we’ll be able to book a room somewhere. This may be possible outside of school holidays or on a weekday, but not at other times. Fingers crossed.

hiker in full rain gear looking out from entry of small shelter with large pools of water everywhere

A little bird hide shelter beside the dam. The floor is flooded inside.

wide body of water of lake through trees under grey sky wind is whipping up small waves on the lake

A bleak Big Brook Dam. This part of the hike would be delightful in sunny weather! And no doubt very popular too but, today, we have it to ourselves.

Now just one more short sharp hill to climb…

main street of small town with timber houses and white picket fences under very dark grey sky

… and here is Pemberton!

The sky is even more threatening than it has been all day. We catch up with a couple of our fellow hikers that night in Pemberton who reach town a little later and we hear that they were almost blown off their feet when the gust front associated with the approaching squall hit. But right now it hasn’t arrived and we stop at the visitor centre to pick up our resupply - rather to my surprise, we are there in plenty of time. Geoff is not surprised: it has been too wet to photograph flowers!

We’re 24 hours early, and haven’t had phone reception most of the day; no accommodation is arranged but the Visitor Centre staff ring our motel for us and yes, there is a room! All the Visitor Centres have been exceptionally helpful and many are staffed by volunteers as well as paid staff. They are a great asset to their towns and to us hikers.

Rest Days 42, 43 & 44, Pemberton

man in hotel room sorting out packets of food and camping gear

After deliciously hot showers and lots of food, we spend the next day doing washing and resupplying. Because Pemberton is the first town where we had booked three nights, we are now actually staying four with our early arrival and additional booking.

Resupply dinners. We have also packed lunches, snacks and breakfasts and, although some people decry this practice as not being sufficiently supportive of towns, we disagree. We buy all our meals while we are in town and we sleep a few nights there: I can tell you, we spend plenty! Other hikers support towns in other ways, perhaps a combination of both methods. There is no one right or wrong way to resupply: do whatever works best for you and your budget.

informal ladder consisting of reinforcing bar rods hammered into side of tree trunk

“Ladder” up the Gloucester Tree

The following day, we do a little “slackpacking”. This is when you are dropped somewhere without your pack, and then walk a section of track without it. This shortens the subsequent day as you can be dropped off to hike the remaining distance to the next hut, as an excellent way to make longer days easier.

One option is to get a taxi or, even better, the tram to The Cascades on the Bibbulmun Track south of town, and walk back from there. Another option is to catch a taxi to Pemberton’s famous Gloucester Tree, also on the track south of town. This amazing 58m (190ft) karri is the world's second tallest fire-lookout tree and, incredibly, the public is still allowed to climb up to a platform in its upper branches for views of the surrounding forest. How refreshing is that!

The rungs are initially open as they spiral up the trunk but, as you climb higher, a wire cage offers more protection.

short section of proper steel ladder leading to a timber viewing platform

You ascend past several platforms until you reach the very top.

man looking down at ground over railing on timber platform way above most of the surrounding trees

Geoff peers down at the ground, such a very long way away!

expansive view across treetops to distant hills on horizon view ideal for fire spotting

Wonderful views across the treetops to the dunes on the coast. Marvellous stuff! And then it’s time for the climb down. As hang glider pilots, neither Geoff nor I are afraid of heights as such but, like any sane person, we are afraid of falling. We are wearing no harnesses, so one slip will lead to a nasty experience or worse. The descent is surprisingly nerve-wracking. When we reach the bottom, my legs are shaking and cramping - there was a lot more tension in them than I thought!

man with small day pack walking along bitumen path is forest

After that, we walk back into town along the Track. It’s been a lovely day, and we have yet another to come!

small timber gazebo white railings with red roof on grassy lake shore

For our final night, we catch a taxi to our luxury accommodation just out of town.

Forest Lodge Resort has beautiful suites and self contained chalets in a forest setting with a picturesque lake. Dinner is Friday to Monday but, if you are happy to eat the chef’s choice and you ask very nicely, Ingo may whip you up one of his delicious meals, realising that hikers can’t pop into town for dinner.

After three days enjoying this lovely country town, we are refreshed and eager to get back on the track!


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Day 40: Beavis to Beedelup