Hakea Trail - Hamersley Inlet to Whalebone Beach Hut
We recognise and acknowledge the Goreng, Menang and Wudjari people as the traditional owners of Fitzgerald River National Park
Spectacular rocks on the beach followed by clifftop views are the order of the day.
If you’ve camped at Hamersley Inlet and are following our recommended itinerary (see Hakea Hike planning and tips), you’ll retrace your steps out from camp but then turn west along the beach to follow the Hakea Trail to Whalebone Hut. Some of today’s images are taken on our western ‘out’, whereas others are from our return the next day.
But first, the hike details for the day.
Elevation and distance details - Hamersley Inlet to Whalebone Hut (one way).
It’s only a short distance along the beach to the rocks and you wind your way around and between them:
Schist and Quartzite in all kinds of extraordinary shapes. We could have been on Mars.
Just fabulous!
Geoff squeezes between these two slabs; hiking at low tide is recommended
Delightful colours
Past the rocky headland and nearing the end of the second little beach. Fortunately, the sand is firm, though the beach is so small that soft sand would not be a problem.
A short steep climb gets you onto the cliffs
… with lovely views east. Hamersley Inlet is around the corner past the rocky point.
If you hear a strange sound at the top, it is a tiny blowhole that might be a lot louder at high tide. Geoff’s recording is somewhat underwhelming so we haven’t included it here!
The heath is different to that of yesterday, perhaps an earlier or later burn regime, with different flowers in bloom. Here, Stylidium albomontis
Hibbertia
Tamala Karst Lookout with views west. It’s national park as far as the eye can see: at 329,882 hectares (about 3,300sq.km. or 1,275sq.mi), Fitzgerald River NP really is huge, one of the biggest in Australia. It also has relatively few roads, especially now many of them are closed for much of the year or permanently. I bet there are undiscovered new plant species hidden in remote areas.
It’s also relatively flat, easy walking, alternating between sand and limestone, with views every step of the way.
Halgania lavandulacea
Coastal heath like this is so much fun because you get the views AND the wildflowers. If you’re a botanist, and your partner is not, you’ll still both have plenty to enjoy!
Gompholobium cyaninum
And Something elseium in the Fabaceae family!
Views westwards
We have this entire coastline to ourselves.
There are apparently whales about but it’s quite windy so they would be hard to spot, and they are most commonly seen in more sheltered bays further west. We expect to see many whales on the Manang Trail later this week.
Approaching Whalebone Hut, tucked out of sight deep in the valley in front of the drift of pink Melaleuca. You’ll be following the track in the centre mid ground to Quoin Head tomorrow.
Qualup Bell (Pimelea physoides) is one of the wildflower species that occurs either primarily or solely in Fitzgerald River National Park. With such a restricted range, any sighting is a thrill.
Following Whalebone Creek upstream to Whalebone Hut; you can also follow it downstream to the beach. You could do this now, tomorrow, or on the way back; the same applies to the Whalebone Coast Lookout on a short spur trail that you passed a short distance back.
The area around the new hut has been cleared and is ablaze with wildflowers. A full tank of rainwater (there are two) is not guaranteed as they are not replenished by Parks; we have unnecessarily carried in several extra litres. The tanks are likely to be full in spring but may not be later in the season or in autumn.
Sleeping space for at least a dozen hikers - the interior is very nice indeed.
Tables on the deck on the western side have steel plates for camp stoves. The outlook is beautiful but, as so often seems to happen in architect-designed hiker huts, the orientation is impractical because the southerlies funnel up the gully; our caldera cone slides across the steel plate and it is too windy to cook there. The only sheltered spot is inside the hut.
We set up our bedding - no need to squash up because we have the entire hut to ourselves. And we cook in a tiny sheltered corner on the floor.
A delicious new dinner: Pea, feta and pearl barley risotto (recipe coming soon!). I take the shot here but we then escape the gale to eat inside. Botanists will find plenty to delight them around the hut, but there is more to see tomorrow!
