Zoe Falls
We respectfully acknowledge the Bandjin People as the traditional custodians of the land on which we walk. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and to the Aboriginal people present today.
One of the famous infinity pools at the top of Zoe Falls. Because there would be one, wouldn’t there, on this ridiculously picturesque island.
Today is an indulgence day. Head out early to catch the sunrise and eat breakfast on the rock slabs at the top of the falls, or pack lunch and spend all day at the pool below. Or, if you’ve brought a rod, you can fish in the estuary by the campground (not at the waterfall) for dinner.
The track up to the waterfall follows Zoe Creek, which is initially wide, deep and estuarine. Geoff is carrying a pack with our washing inside, which we will do on the way up.
Hibbertia nemorosa
Hovea densivellosa
Martin boils up a cuppa while the rest of us wash clothes (sans soap) in the creek below the water take off point. However, the water collection point is still downstream from the Falls and swimming hole. This is the only place we elected to treat our drinking water.
These Golden Penda trees (Xanthostemon chrysanthus) edge rocky creeks and watercourses. Their flowers attract the spectacular Ulysses butterfly, which we have seen fluttering like electric blue scraps of foil between the canopies.
The crossing at Zoe Creek has a rope to assist when water levels are higher. Crossing this stream during very high flows would be dangerous because of the number of boulders to whack into should you lose your grip.
Zoe Falls is lovely, and packed with fish. During the day the rockpool can be busy with day trippers who are ferried across from Cardwell or Lucinda, or who have their own boats. It’s quieter early morning and evening.
These jungle perch Kuhlia rupestris grow slowly to about 50cm, though none we saw were quite that big.
The fish swim downstream to brackish water to spawn at the first big flood of the season, before returning as far upstream as they can manage: hence their accumulation at the base of big waterfalls like Zoe. On the mainland, numbers have dropped due to clearance of stream banks and blockages that prevent migration; steps are currently being undertaken to reintroduce them to streams from which they have disappeared. Please don’t fish them in the pool: it’s illegal, they are poor eating, and they learn quickly not to take lures in populated spots like this. If you sit quietly on the water’s edge, though, they’ll swim up to investigate your toes!
After a swim, head back to the track to climb up alongside the falls to the top. It’s very steep and you’ll ascend a short rope scramble for which most people will need both hands. Here’s Doug, having a bit of fun.
Just look at that view across Zoe Bay. To the far left, you can see the swampland and floodplain we skirted yesterday; the Track emerges partway along the beach, not at the very northern end. If you are hiking north, keep your eyes peeled for the signage under the trees at the edge of the sand. Directly in front of the infinity pool amongst the trees at the edge of the beach, you can just make out the tiny patch of sandy bank that is the mouth of Zoe Creek.
There are several pools at the top and my goodness, they’re gobsmacking. The terrain is open and sunny up here and behind me are numerous warm rock slabs to spread a towel. It is a grand spot for a picnic, or to spend the day soaking in that view and splashing in the numerous pools.
Later, back down in camp, we find two fishers at the mangrove-fringed mouth of Zoe Creek. They cast before sensibly backing away from the edge, but have no luck.
Keep an eye out for crocodiles!
Locals motor in during the day and may stay overnight; the channels and bay are very shallow so boaties have to know the waterways and tide times well.
Fruit of the Beach Calophylla (Calophyllum inophyllum). This tree is native to Asia but has spread widely due to its cyclone resistance and its use as shipbuilding timber. We are camped beneath them. You’ll have seen a particularly huge one with impossibly horizontal limbs as you first emerge onto Zoe Bay beach the previous day.
Also flowering sparsely along the edge of the beach is Sea Hibiscus (H. tiliaceus) with its spectacular yellow flowers.
And there are also coconut palms! Another group of hikers had picked one up (which we don’t recommend in a National Park), and gave Doug a piece. Yum!
Zoe Bay campground has the luxury of two picnic tables. Here’s Geoff preparing dinner.
Carrot, coconut and lentil soup tonight (recipe coming soon!).
Carrot, coconut and lentil soup: yum!
A water polo team has arrived and set up camp around us so the campground is very full!
Zoe Bay: the high tides come all the way up the beach to the trees. Here are a few of the water polo boys enjoying dinner on the beach. Could it get any more beautiful?
… Yes. Yes it can, and it does. And tomorrow is another famously spectacular walk, to another famously beautiful waterfall. This hike is stupendous.
