Day 21: Murray to Dookanelly
We acknowledge the Nyoongar People as the traditional custodians of the land and waters along the Bibbulmun Track
Today’s longer distance of 19.5 km (12.5 mi) is very doable because there is relatively little elevation gain and loss: a delightful relaxing walk along the river. Not too many views, with a tunnel of dogwood (Trymalium) and pea flowers in sections. The diversion to the causeway at Driver Rd is worth a visit and there is a well-used campsite on the opposite bank that would be a good stop for afternoon tea before the final climb or to shorten the day.
Todays overview map
A longish day but not too much climbing: except of course there is the obligatory climb near the end of the day!
You can’t tell from the shot but it’s raining again, quite heavily. Still something interesting to photograph! The Olympus OMD1 Mk 3 is fully weather sealed when used with Pro lenses, and is favoured by many outdoor photographers for this reason. My kit weighs about 2 kg, which is heavy compared to an Iphone but light compared to a DSLR!
After years of different camera carrying methods, I now use a Peak Designs Clip on the pack shoulder strap. I suspect that this system would be uncomfortable for larger lenses and busty women, but it works particularly well on my mastectomy side! Geoff has a clip on his pack as well so we can both carry the camera. When it’s raining, I encase the camera, still in the clip, with a Sea to Summit ultrasil bag, closing the bag underneath with the stiffened part uppermost. In my experience, this is more effective in keeping the camera dry than the neoprene cover sold by Peak Designs.
The 12-40 Pro lens is great for macro shots (all the flower shots are done with it) as well as landscapes; many of the ones you see are vertical panoramas stitched in lightroom. The much admired 12-100 Pro lens is a better lens for wildlife but it is very heavy to carry on a pack shoulder strap and it was left at home for that reason; the 7-14mm wide angle lens is similarly heavy at 534g (19oz) and I reluctantly left it at home as well. Instead there’s the tiny but eye-wateringly expensive 150g (5.3oz) 7.5mm Laowa manual lens tucked into the pack, but it’s not weather sealed and it’s too risky to swap lenses when it’s raining.
Our phones are Iphone 6ses but the image quality (above) is somewhat lacking. It’s time to upgrade!
A tunnel of green today
… but still delightful orchids such as the white spider (Caladenia longicauda ssp longicauda)
… and Pterostylis sp in the shadier spots
The vegetation is incredibly dense!
Steps are always welcome, so much less stress on tendons, especially uphill, and easier on knees downhill.
I have tendon issues and they are starting to make themselves known. Ignored pain in the past has led to permanent scarring of the tendon sheaths in the achilles and plantar fascia, which causes flareups faster and sooner even with preventative measures. The tendon isn’t painful yet but it’s essential to promptly address the flareup with topical drugs, stretches/trigger point release of the hamstring and calves, and careful walking up steep hills (small steps, not leaning forward, zigzagging up wider tracks) to prevent the inflammation worsening and causing further scarring.
The causeway at Driver Rd - a small diversion, and worth the view after the recent rains. You can see the green bank on the opposite side through the trees; it looks to be a car camping site.
This little sign on the trunk of a tree at the top of the hill is a LIE, because there is a bit of uphill to the hut!
And here we are. Meeting people on the track is so much more a part of thru-hiking than we expected. Unlike shorter hikes, you spend many days with folk you’ve never met before, and you are all doing the same thing. A wonderful sense of camaraderie and shared purpose means you get to know each other very well in a surprisingly short time.
You can also see our dehydrated meal on the table: bolognese, our favourite! I cook, dehydrate and pack all the meals ahead of time at home, but Geoff usually prepares them on the track.
Geoff in his Dawgs camp and river crossing shoes. They are a women’s model in black and, although our croc thongs are lighter, these have a heel strap and firm sole so they are good for river crossings. Women’s models are often even lighter (here, 227g size 42) than chunkier men’s models, but they won’t work if you have wide feet.
Our trusty fleece beanies look daggy but they are warm and very light, much lighter than woollen beanies, as well as quick-drying. In very cold or buggy weather we team them with the exceptional North by North merino balaclavas, which also double as neck buffs and beanies. Clearly, we are no fashion plates!
For the first time on this hike, I finish the day feeling really strong. Perhaps those famous Trail Legs have finally arrived! Gosh, I hope so!
