Mamang Trail Day 1 - Point Ann to Fitzgerald Inlet
We recognise and acknowledge the Goreng, Menang and Wudjari people as the traditional owners of Fitzgerald River National Park
Spectacular views from Point Charles over Gnangmeip (Fitzgerald) Beach and Inlet, with cloud-capped Narpulungup, Woolburnup and Quyne-dillun-up Peaks beyond
This extraordinary 31km out and return hike traverses beaches, coastal heath, mallee and ti tree. If you’re hiking July-October, you’ll see whales cavorting in the bays while, onshore, birdlife is prolific. Wildflower enthusiasts are in for a treat, with orchids and other rare and unusual species beside the track. The views are spectacular too, both coastal and inland. The Mamang Trail is quite different to the Hakea Trail so, if you’re in the park, make the effort to do both.
Map of the day with elevation details over the 15.9 kilometres - today we take you along the inland route to Fitzgerald Inlet, returning tomorrow along the beach.
This hike is fantastic for slower hikers: at 15.9 km (or less, depending on route) each way, with little elevation gain, you’ll have plenty of puff and time to savour the wildflowers, views and wildlife. If you hike from July to October, budget extra time for the beaches, not just for tides but because you’ll see whales playing close to shore!
Descending through heath to Pt Charles beach. Everything is in bloom, and we are eager to get closer to the whales we have spotted from the lookout behind us at Pt Ann.
A few friendly roos are about - they have become accustomed to people at St Mary Campground nearby.
Easy walking initially along a well-maintained path...
…With a palette of colour either side.
And finally onto the beach with views to Narpulungup, Woolburnup and Quyne-dillun-up Peaks beyond. We are in short sleeves but have come prepared for the showers that we can see in the distance, and which threaten closer to us inland. Not that we are looking inland: there are four whales, two of them close to shore.
Here they are! These are Southern Right Whales; migrating humpback, minke and orca whales are also often seen. ‘Mamang’ means whale in the local dialect. Don’t be surprised if it takes you an hour to traverse 1km of beach!
After a VERY slow hike along the beach, taking numerous whale shots - photographers, bring your long lens! - you’ll duck inland. Keep your eyes peeled for the trail marker on the dune; don’t worry if you miss the first one about one third of the way up the beach as there is a second halfway along (but don’t mistake it for the high water car track, see Mamang Hike Planning and Tips).
Amazing flowers of Four-Winged Mallee (Eucalyptus tetraptera).
A rest under a Nuytsia floribunda (moodjar) grove. It’s completely understandable that these trees are of cultural significance to our First Nations people. Nuytsias are a kind of mistletoe and are the largest hemi-parasitic plant in the world, meaning they parasitise the roots of other plants, but can also photosynthesise to sustain themselves. You’ll often see them growing in suckering groves, looking for all the world like a group of people gathered for a chat.
A huge variety of pea flowers are in full bloom. Colours range from orange and yellow, to purples and even blue.
Painted Lady Legume (Gompholobium scabrum)
Gentle undulations through the heath, with views north to Narpulungup, Woolburnup and Quyne-dillun-up Peaks growing ever closer. We make it a habit of attaching our pack covers when rain threatens, rather than waiting until it rains. This is somewhat anal, because there are pack liners inside as well, but nylon packs soak up a fair bit of moisture. My new Zpacks ArcHaul Ultra - an outstanding pack for weights under about 15kg - may be made of waterproof material, but we don’t trust any seam-sealing when carrying down sleeping gear! Due to their construction with myriad seams, packs are notoriously difficult to waterproof.
The trail spurs are much better marked on the inland side. We will return along the northernmost one to the beach tomorrow.
Spectacular Hakea victoriae: the flowers themselves are insignificant compared to the leaves.
Time for a snack at the lookout over the oxymoronic Lake Nameless. Who thinks up these monikers? Cartographers or rangers having a bit of a giggle, we reckon! The vegetation has grown since the lookout was built: you’ll need to stand on the seat for this view.
Lake Not Nameless
Orchid enthusiasts with their eyes peeled will find a surprising number of treasures due to the variety of habitats. Here, growing under Melaleuca, the more aptly named Western Tiny Blue Orchid (Cyanicula aperta)
And also in shade under dense tea-tree, this unusual Pterostylis, possibly P. erubescens
This gives you an idea of the variety of vegetation. You’ll pass through coastal heath, Melaleuca and here, Acacia and mallee.
Plenty of interesting orchids, here, Pterostylis timothyi
And a not quite open Grass-Leaved Spider Orchid (Caladenia graminifolia) in a moist, sheltered area. These flowers are self-fertile and often open for only one or two days, so seeing even this is a stroke of luck. I’m thrilled!
Fitzgerald Inlet Lookout
A mallee fowl (Leipoa ocellata) mound! For overseas readers, mallee fowl are a fascinating bird (there are three species) where the male builds a nest of leaf litter and sand that he scratches together from the forest floor. The hen lays her eggs in the middle where the composting leaf litter keeps the eggs warm enough to hatch. Dad even regulates the temperature, which he measures with his beak, by adding and removing the insulating sand from the heap. Fortunately for him, and unlike human parents, Mum and Dad are both off the hook after the chicks hatch. The chicks (up to 25 of them!) are on their own from the moment they crack their shells: they have to dig their way out by themselves, and are completely self sufficient. As you might guess when nature dictates such a large clutch, the odds are against them, more so with the advent of feral cats and foxes.
Onwards to Pt Charles Lookout. There is Fitzgerald Bay, with the sandbar closing the inlet far left. You’ll cross it and follow the inlet inland to the campsite. Make time to soak up the views and the whales in the bay.
From the lookout, you climb steeply down and onto the beach and sandbar. Twitchers should schedule another pause because the inlet is teeming with birdlife (here, a flock of Great Crested Tern, Thalasseus bergii).
Delightful views as you head inland along the bank.
Although the campground is sheltered and perfectly adequate, it’s not, we have to admit, the highlight of the hike. Full of sand, paper, spiders and debris, the toilet is horrendous, the picnic table and barbecue dilapidated, and piles of gathered beach rubbish are waiting for collection at the entry track. Various broken bits and structures dot the area; we wonder whether this is a deliberate strategy to discourage hikers. If so, this is a shame and you shouldn’t be put off because every step to and from the campsite itself is so extraordinarily excellent.
Dinner in Fitzgerald Inlet Campground. You can see our cook system: Caldera Cone Tri-Ti with 1300ml Evernew pot and Toaks stove (Geoff tested stoves with this system and the Starlyte burner is more efficient for two: stay tuned for our Cook System for Two article). You can also see our little bottle of olive oil with the blue cap, a great way to add calories. Today’s hike has been exceptional in both variety and views; tomorrow will be primarily along the beach, with more whales!
