Gar to Werdug

Wildlife, spines and peaks with views, views and yet more views

We respectfully acknowledge the Djab Wurrung and Jardwardjali people as the traditional custodians of the lands and waters of Gariwerd. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and to the Aboriginal people present today.

Distant view to Lake Wartook from above

Views southwest over Lake Wartook here, but you’ll also have them to the north, east and west for most of the day. In country that largely comprises forested terrain, this is extraordinary.

map of the route with elevation loss 650m and gain 690m details

You can see from the elevation graph that today’s hike is longer than yesterday’s but with similar elevation gain, so grades are less steep. After leaving Gar Hut, you’ll divert at the Mt Gar spur trail for splendid 360 degree views from the highest peak in this section. Next is a steep climb up numerous well-built steps, followed by a wonderful walk along spines for yet more views, culminating at another marvellously elevated campsite with — yes, you guessed it! — more views.

How to Make Today Easier

As always, starting early is the most reliable option for slower hikers. You have no intermediate camp options —Long Point West Campground is too far off the track, and not well placed distance-wise either — so take your time, knowing that there are no scrambles and that the track is mostly good underfoot.

One of the best ways to ease today is to hike the Gar spur trail as an out and return from Gar campsite yesterday instead of today. We did this to good effect; it’s also practical if you expect low cloud to obscure views in the morning. You have a little elevation gain from camp — just 100m (330 ft) — and doing so reduces today’s distance by 2 km (1.2 miles).

You can also skip the spur trail — some of the hikers we shared camp with did precisely that — but it is a shame to miss Gar’s first class views, some of the finest in this section.

There is a serviced water tank at the Mt Difficult Road crossing just 1.5km (0.9 miles) from Werdug where you can top up, so you need carry only the water you need for the day’s hike even if you expect the tank at the campsite to be dry.

Also at Mt Difficult Rd, you could have done a food drop for tonight’s dinner plus this section’s final day breakfast, snacks and lunch which would mean that today you would only be carrying snacks and lunch in a nicely lightened pack. Multiple food drops are expensive but, if you give yourself a day before the start of the hike, you will have plenty of time to drop at every road crossing if you wanted to. Learning how to dehydrate meals and reduce your carried food weight whilst maintaining nutrition is also worthwhile — see our tips here.

Walk with Us:

hiker on track on rock with steep side slope

Start the day with a gentle climb up steps and along sloping rock.

Caladenia moschata has white flowers

Keep your eyes peeled for new orchids: these are the first Scented Caps (Caladenia moschata) I’ve seen.

Philotheca verrucosa has small white star shaped flowers

This Fairy Waxflower (Philotheca verrucosa) is also delightfully scented.

hiker amongst sloping angled jagged rocks with wildflowers in between

Leave your pack at the spur trail to Mt Gar; no day hikers are likely to be around this early or at all so drop it somewhere obvious and easy to find. We each have a tiny Ultrasil day pack weighing just 30g (1 oz): enough for a camera, first aid kit, water, lightweight rainwear, and navigation. Unclip your PLB and Inreach from your main pack and you’re set. Geoff is carrying his ultrasil pack for our gear; I’m super ultralight without anything but the clothes on my back!

When diverting on spur trails, it’s tempting to leave everything behind in your pack, but even on short out-and-returns you want to have your comms and medical patch kit at hand should something happen, especially if you’re solo. Murphy dictates that something will go wrong at the least convenient and expected location!

expansive view across mountains and valley

Rain was threatening and the light was dull when we hiked here the previous afternoon but the views from the top — here south over Lake Wartook — were wonderfully atmospheric. It was cold and windy so we didn’t linger, aiming to race an approaching rain squall back. Although navigation to the peak wasn’t difficult in the sense of getting lost, fewer markers meant that at one point we found ourselves on an adjacent line of rocks a few metres to the side of the official route. Returning in the dark might be a lot trickier!

expansive view across mountains and valley

A tiny patch of sunlight breaks through cloud to the northwest.

hiker on steps with many ahead

Once back on the GPT, you’ll face the famous steps ascending 300m. Fortunately, they are all like this rather than loose boulders or scree.

small nodding greenhood orchid

More orchids and wildflowers to be enjoyed, here Nodding Greenhood (Pterostylis nutans)

sunlit vally far below hiker who is still making way up rock steps

Don’t forget to turn around whenever you have a breather to take in the views opening up behind you. You can just make out Mt Stapylton in the centre distance and, behind it, Mt Zero.

branches on side of track showing where not to go

In some places you’ll see branches or debris laid down to indicate that this is not track. A branch laid across a side track is another universal indicator that it is not the route you should take.

expansive view through scrub to distant valley far below

You’ll have views on and off right through this section. It’s rocky but not loose underfoot. Moderately fit hikers will be fine.

Grampians Grevillea has pale pink spikey flower petals

Grampians Grevillea (G. confertifolia)

worn sectio of rock as it passes by moss leaving it intact

Here the rock has been worn by many feet to highlight the track. If you’re ever unsure, stop beside a trail marker and scan for the next one in a line indicated by the marker. Remember to look for markers on flat surfaces as well as vertical ones. Also look for small navigational cairns — sometimes just two stacked rocks — that have been placed in confusing spots. Please don’t build ornamental rock stacks in parks — they destroy habitat and confound navigational cairns.

smooth track meandering through rock and scrub lined by wildflowers

As on previous days it’s not all rock, with pleasant smooth track between the rougher bits. The wildflowers are still prolific; botanists and ecologists will have begun to recognise patterns, such as which plants grow with which, and in what conditions.

hiker on rock track  with wildflowers and views across to adjacent ridge

Following a spine…

well craftyed rock steps blend in well with surrounds

… with a few ups and downs.

Mossy rocky track through teatree with vast views ahead

Mossy rocky track through teatree

hiker sitting on rock in shade reading map

Rest break. Geoff and I stop for 5 minutes every hour for a drink (10-15 minutes at morning and afternoon tea). The main reason we do this is to ensure we drink plenty of water; before we initiated this practice one or both of us would forget to drink enough. The switch regulating thirst gets a bit sticky in older folk, so if you find you are often dehydrated, this might work for you too. It’s also a good opportunity to pull out the map to see what’s ahead, especially if you’re handrailing as a navigation technique. This isn’t as important on the GPT, which is mostly well marked, but helpful if you can’t see a marker on rock, but know you are following the spine for another few hundred metres.

hiker walking across nobly rock track

Passing by more fantastical rock formations. When dry this granite is very secure underfoot.

hiker walkign down steep rock steps lined by rock on one side forest the other

Descending. I take my hands out of trekking pole loops on most descents after once faceplanting and splitting open my brow while tethered; Geoff is more confident and only takes his hands out on very slippery or rough descents.

hikr part way up steep slopign face of granite rock slab that is the track

And up again. You’ll have a fair bit of this today.

hiker at edge of escarpment with massive drop and view below

The track follows the edge of this escarpment for much of the day, with easterly views nearly all the way.

hiker on rock spine with vast view of forested mountains bathed in sunshine ahead

Where you have no easterly views, there are southerly ones.

Lake Wartook is in the far distance far below

Last views of Wartook until you reach camp.

hiker on track lined by rock one side forest the other

Descending to Long Gully Creek

hiker squeezing between boulders

A few boulders to squeeze between.

Small lizard Rankinia diemensis well camouflaged on the rock

If you’re lucky, you’ll see a Mountain Dragon, Rankinia diemensis. This not so painted tiny juvenile sunning itself on rock is less than 8cm long. It lacks the brilliant colouration seen in its older brethren, and is regrowing its tail after an encounter with a predator. The camouflage is exceptional; this one was invisible against the mottled granite until it moved.

spider orchid with long elegant white and burgundy petals

Wine-lipped Spider Orchid (Caladenia oenochila). Much excitement, I can tell you! I saw only this one clump of plants along the entire track: orchid enthusiasts, don’t hesitate to photograph new flowers thinking you will see more later because you may not!

small orchid with white flowers

A lovely constellation of Scented Caps. Like many plant enthusiasts, I’m a slow hiker partly because I shoot hundreds of images each day: botanists and landscape photographers will no doubt understand! In areas with few flowers, or in bucketing rain when it’s difficult to shoot views, we’re a lot faster, aren’t we?

expansive view from edge of escarpment

More of those views. Fantastic, just fantastic.

hiker on cross sloping rock track with forest ahead

Down to Mt Difficult Road.

hiker on track through forest

Through taller yellow box…

hiker stepping on stones to cross Long Gully Creek

… and across Long Gully Creek. One last climb to camp!

werdug camp is surrounded by dense vegetation

And here we are at Werdug. The hut blends perfectly with the landscape and will do so even more when the timber weathers to grey.

Werdug Hut with large rainwater tank surrounded by forest

Werdug Hut.

two wooden recliner seats over looking vast view across valley at sunset

Make your way up from camp along the track past the toilets for two recliners from which to enjoy the view.

rays of sunlight through clouds at sunset

Climb the rock beside the hut for wonderful sunset views over Lake Wartook. It has been another marvellous day of hiking, so much variety in such a short distance. Will tomorrow be any different?


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Barigar to Gar

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Werdug to Halls Gap and Rest Day