Werdug to Halls Gap and Rest Day
Along the edge of the main escarpment with vast easterly views today, followed by a long descent through forest and ferns
We respectfully acknowledge the Djab Wurrung and Jardwardjali people as the traditional custodians of the lands and waters of Gariwerd. We pay our respects to Elders past and present and to the Aboriginal people present today.
Fabulous views east over shining Lake Lonsdale, forest and farmland.
Just look at that elevation profile! Happy Days! The last day of the northerly section has only a couple hundred metres elevation gain, followed by a long descent into Halls Gap. This day will be easy for anyone with good knees — go you! Those with dodgy knees will look at the profile and shudder but, don’t worry, it’s doable!
How to Make Today Easier
Today is the easiest stretch of the northern section and, if you have managed previous days well, you will be fine today too. The first part is Grade 4 and has several ups and downs, but most of it is along the very edge of the escarpment and relatively flat as well as excellent underfoot.
The second part comprises a long, continuous contouring descent down steps, many of which have high risers. The best way to reduce stress on creaky or less fit bodies is to take your time, and to use trekking poles to transfer some of the impact on your knees into your arms. Even with trekking poles and prophylactic Vitamin I (Ibuprofen), one of my knees resembled a soccer ball by the time I reached Halls Gap, but I started the descent without much thought or care. By the time I realised, the damage had been done. Therefore, if you are prone to knee issues, anticipate this and don’t rush: Halls Gap pubs and eateries will wait for you!
If you’re particularly concerned, you could arrange a pickup at the Mt Difficult Rd crossing 3.4km from Werdug, but it will be expensive because the crossing is on the wrong side of the range for Halls Gap and requires a long detour. You’ll also miss the best views of the day, so it is a last resort option.
Walk with Us:
You begin with lovely views west over Lake Wartook.
Still plenty of wildlife, here Mum and bub. As we saw previously, many of the Eastern Greys along the track are accustomed to hikers.
You’ll see these Canary Worms (Fletchamia sugdeni) on the track after rain. Unlike garden worms, these are active predators, hunting out slugs and small insects.
You pass spectacular rock formations. Enjoy your last views of Lake Wartook (far right). The weather is threatening: we expect rain soon, but we’re hoping to reach the eastern escarpment before cloud and squalls obscure views: sometimes it’s worth checking forecasts to plan your departure time to get the most out of the day. Conversely, other times a delay gives mist time to lift. An Inreach is not just an emergency communicator, but also allows you to access forecasts for your location without mobile phone coverage.
And you’ll have your first views of Lake Bellfield and the ranges you’ll be hiking in the Central Section. Halls Gap is tucked below the ridge, nestled at the foot of the Mt Difficult Range you’re traversing now.
Wow, so much fun!
Something terrible happened this morning: I dropped the camera on the tent platform and broke the lens. There is a macro lens at our accommodation but the phone will have to do for today. Here is a new orchid, the Dainty Greenhood (Pterostylis diminuta) on the Iphone. Later today I find a different new orchid but they are too small and it is too dark to get good shots. Fortunately similar country and aspects are coming up in the Central Section, so hopefully more will be there. Fingers crossed!
For a delightful few kilometres, the GPT follows the very edge of the escarpment, with views all the way along.
Second breakfast with a view, but cloud is fast approaching.
Here it comes! Another few glimpses through and under the mist…
… and this is our last vista until much later.
No views but plenty of interesting rocks. It’s almost raining, but not yet.
The track becomes increasingly sandy but is still firm underfoot.
And it’s drizzling. Dry bracken and acacia below yellow box.
If you need a break, several convenient rock overhangs provide shelter. Never use these in thunderstorms at elevation. When sitting towards the front, your body becomes the best connecting route through which the lightning will jump, just like a spark plug.
And here we are in the mist. You have views to the left, just not right now.
The callitris have vivid red lichen growing on them. No, not just on one side, like moss it is a myth.
Pink Heath, Epacris impressa. Keep your eyes peeled for the larger, rosy-red-flowering form with greyish leaves found only in the Grampians.
And here are those steps. I was silly enough to go at them like a bull at a gate, but then there were more, and more, and more. Take your time.
You have breaks of beautifully contouring path between the steps, increasing in length as you descend.
Delightful walking despite the drizzle.
There’s really nowhere to leave the path so we take advantage of a log for another hot soup lunch: soup is always nice when it’s cold and wet. We have a delicious spare cold soak bean salad (recipe coming soon!) but it is relegated to the bottom of the pack on days like this. Our little alcohol stove is pretty quick, around 5 minutes to boil two cups of water, plenty fast enough for slower hikers like us. If you’re a leisurely hiker too, consider alcohol stoves like the Caldera Cone system: they are slower but much lighter than Jetboils.
Still misty as we approach Chataqua Peak. My knee is very cross with me and views obscured by the mist so we don’t detour but head straight down.
Finally we are below the cloud and Halls Gap opens us before us, with Peverill and Boronia Peaks behind it and Lake Bellfield in the distance.
Last push into Halls Gap, with gentle gradients and smooth paths.
The view from our motel room: the wood ducks are enjoying the rain!
Rest Day(s) Halls Gap
Halls Gap is a little township with a population of about 430, but more than 800,000 people visit the Grampians annually, and many of them either visit or stay in Halls Gap. This means the town has everything a hiker needs including a caravan park, B&Bs, motels and cabins (our motel did our laundry for a modest fee; the campground and some cabins also have laundry facilities).
If you choose your accommodation carefully, you are within easy walking distance of the supermarket, shops, pubs, cafes and an outdoor supply shop; we stayed just behind the main street in the Kookaburra Motor Lodge; choose the mountain view rooms for breakfast scenes like we had. Check your accommodation location carefully when booking because despite names that imply they are near the GPT and town, many of them are spread out along the range and may not be within comfortable walking distance of either.
Halls Gap Main Drag (Image Credit: Martin Mebolds)
We strongly encourage slower hikers to spend at least two nights in Halls Gap. You’ll recuperate from the last section and be refreshed for the Central Section; you can enjoy the town’s wonderful features, and you can use your day to do laundry, food drops and/or slackpack the climb out of Halls Gap in reverse. We spent three nights; we didn’t slackpack but visited local reserves to search for orchids, did a food drop and transferred our car to Dunkeld in preparation for the Central and Southern Sections.
Halls Gap is in itself a somewhat touristy drawcard; I remember visiting here as a child with my grandparents, and later as a teen with my parents. The most bold and cheeky cockies Geoff and I have ever met live in Halls Gap.
The wildlife in town is incredible. Here is a Laughing Kookaburra (Dacelo novaeguineae) on a post behind the post office.
This cocky came right up, eyeing off my icecream (there is an icecreamery and fudge shop in town, neither of which you should miss!).
Even normally shy birds are emboldened here. One of these Crimson Rosellas (Platycercus elegans) landed on Geoff’s arm as he was eating an icecream. How cute, we thought, as it walked down his forearm to his wrist. Then it snatched a bite out of his icecream and flew away! Cheeky little bugger! Of course, never feed wildlife deliberately, it causes all kinds of nutritional imbalances in them.
Nope, not for you, mate!
Orchid enthusiasts and botanists will definitely want to visit some of the nearby reserves; the flatlands around the Grampians and the lower flanks have completely different species to that on much of the trail, which is at elevation. Visit aquatic reserves such as around Lakes Lonsdale and Wartook, anywhere along roadsides in the park’s flatter areas especially after fire, and a little further afield around Stawell. Mt Zero is worth visiting if you haven’t yet. Here are just a few of the species I found (full orchid gallery coming up) on travels before, after and on ‘rest’ days of the GPT:
Eastern Blue Fairies (Caladenia caerulea)
Red Wispy Spider Orchid (Caladenia filamentosa)
Tawny Spider Orchid (Caladenia fulva)
Candy Spider Orchid (Caladenia versicolor)
Golden Moths (Diuris behrii)
If you’re not into orchids but have your car, there are boutique wineries, breweries and artisan producers: you will not be bored if you stay three nights, we promise! And you’ll be raring to go for the Central Section of the GPT!
