Day 5 - Laugavegur: Hrafntinnusker to Hvanggil
This day begins with volcanic glass and gleaming snowy ridges and valleys, before descending to Álftavatn. A spectacular start, but we had no idea what was in store for us. The colours, steam and snow were exceptional, but the highlight for both of us was the view across Álftavatn from the highlands. This walk has been extraordinary because of its variety – new scenes every hour, and completely new ones again every day. Today did not disappoint.
Yummy brekky noodles!
And not a bad view from the breakfast table!
Ready to head off. The weather is perfect – the views will be wonderful – and we’re raring to go. You can see our clothing layering system of wool base layers, synthetic fleece, and waterproof wind shell for the top, with synthetic (not cotton) pants. Cotton is very cold when wet and takes ages to dry; a hiker saying is, “cotton kills.”
We head due south across the plain.
Looking back towards Hrafntinnusker Hut, just visible top right.
We are incredibly lucky with the weather. We suspect it will overdevelop and cloud over this afternoon, so want to see all of the highest section before then.
Háskerðingur peak and Kaldaklofsjökull.
Some more snow walking - but it’s a firm path so going is easy.
At the edge of the Torfajökull caldera with more incredible colours. And just look at how fast those clouds are building! It will sock in for sure.
Saxifraga sp.
Adapted to an incredibly harsh environment.
Onwards after our break.
Steaming water right beside snow. We have run out of superlatives!
But wait, what is this?!? That aqua green below? It is literally hard to believe our eyes.
The long, spectacular descent down Jökultungur begins.
As we suspected - there is weather on the way from the west.
Álftavatn (Swan Lake) and the Álftavatn Valley.
Ever closer, with that rain encroaching. Conical Hattfell behind the lake, Torfatindur to the right and Brattháls to the left. And there’s our destination for a hot lunch – Álftavatn Huts, the little cluster of buildings just left of the lake.
We’re safe inside now. No pictures of the approach: the rain is hammering on the roof. Our raingear and boots are in the wet room. I use the weather-sealed Olympus in drizzle, but not when it’s bucketing!
Hot soup, yum even at $28/bowl!
Another notorious tent-destroying campsite with one lone dome – stunning, but windy. Still, even the loos are picturesque!
We’d decided in our planning to push on past this popular spot to Hvanggil, adding 3.4 km to the day to stay at the smaller but more sheltered campsite.
After lunch, we continue with a small stream to cross. It’s squally, but has eased. And the cloud hasn’t descended completely, which is fantastic.
Just this morning, we were in snow and richly coloured earth. And now look!
Stórasúla Volcano.
And finally at Hvanggil or “Angel Valley”.
The campsites are quite small and there are not many of them. All the best flat spots are gone. There are some humps under our tent! But who cares with the views we’ve had today?
Dinner with yet another view. What a day!