Day 6 - Laugavegur: Hvanggil to Botnar Emstrur

You might think there could be no new sights to see after the last incredible five days, but you’d be wrong. This short day with gentle short rises and a wide volcanic plain gives us time to set up camp and then visit the remarkable Markarfljótsjgljúfur, a delightful short loop with views along the canyon as well as of Entujökull and Mýdalsjökull capping the mighty Katla.

The day dawns dull, but it’s dry and the views – again – are fabulous.

Map of the days hike

Walking wise it’s pretty straightforward today.

closeup of large pink flowers of arctic riverbeauty

Arctic River Beauty (Chaemerium latifolium).

Man with backpack wading knee deep river Laugavegur track Iceland

Crossing from Emstrua. We meet a small group coming from the other side. Firm-soled sandals are really worth carrying on this hike. Non-absorbent ones double as camp shoes in the huts.

Track across mossy plain with mist shrouded mountains in background

It’s astonishing what grows in these rocky soils.

Gushing meltwater stream through harsh rocky plain

Crossing more streams - here, glacial meltwater.

Closeup of assorted volcanic and glacial rocks on ashy plain

Random rocks either dropped out of a glacier or spewed out of a volcano, dunno which. So often here, we wish we knew more geology.

Through a gap and onto ….

distant hiker on track across ash plain with white track marker post in foreground

…. Another vast ash plain, with conical hills rising abruptly from its surface.

We commence our final long descent for the day.

And finally Emstrur comes into sight, nestled amongst the folds of ash.

Back view of hiker seated beside tent

We set up the tent and have a quick cuppa.

Then we set off on the 2km loop to the canyon,  Markarfljótsjgljúfur . We weren’t even aware of this side trip until the hut warden we paid for our campsite recommended we go.

We come across numerous wonderful little plants along the path on our way to the canyon.

Distant hiker on spur gazing into huge canyon

We reach the canyon. Wow!

Deep canyon bisecting flat plain with conical hill behind

And you’d never know it was here.

Hiker left foreground gazing across plain to glacier in background

More views on the way back…

…including a hillock covered in interesting forbs.

We get to the point and there’s a clearer view of Entujökull.

To think we nearly missed these vistas!

Seated hiker preparing dinner beside Duplex tent Botnar campground

And back to our small flat spot on the tiered campground for dinner.


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Day 5 - Laugavegur: Hrafntinnusker to Hvanggil

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Day 7 - Laugavegur: Botnar/Emstrur to Þórsmörk