Day 2 – Hellismannaleid: Afangagil to Landmannahellir
Today, we start to climb. We see lava fields, wide gravel plains, and there is a moderately challenging creek crossing. It’s a longer day than we originally planned. There are no suitable campsites before we reach the protected park area, so we have to reach Landmannahellir Huts – no wild camping is allowed in the park – and the classic Icelandic weather has decided to grace us. But we hardly notice the rain because the views are so engrossing!
We start our day 6 km short of Afangagil huts so going all the way to Landmannahellir means we have a 28 km day (rather than the standard 22km) with elevation gain of 690 m (550m). So an early start, with more gravel plains to firstly traverse.
It’s amazing what can survive in this bare landscape: here, bladderwort (Silene uniflora) and also Armeria maritima
Sheep dung from a few seasons ago.
Best not to shit in the non woods here, even if you dig a hole and bury it: their summer is so short and winter so long and cold that poo won't rot. Not only that, but frosts and thaws are likely to push your ugly leavings back to the surface. Hang on, and use loos at huts. Which is why I’m rather eager to get to Afangagil Huts or, to be more precise, their loo.
The lavafield stops… here!
More wild thyme. I’m excited! As you’d expect, there are relatively few flowers here!
Numerous short, sharp, steep ascents and descents.
At last, the descent into Afangagil Huts AND ITS TOILET nears!
Alchemilla alpina, but I don’t linger long!
We find the loos, and can now continue at a more leisurely pace. The Huts are quirky - the Icelanders were doing earthship homes centuries before they became fashionable! A horseriding group is staying here – a riding trek in this area would be fantastic.
Signage is excellent. We still have a way to go but summer days are long so we have plenty of time.
Part way up our climb out of Afangagil
We climb Aldan’s flanks
Even the wide plains are wonderful because they are surrounded by volcanoes and mountains and lava.
At the end of the plain, we pause to check the map. Rain is heading our way.
More fantastical lava formations.
I can imagine Orcs charging around one of these knolls...
Or perhaps Martians ?
As the rain starts, we walk along the valley floor to the edge of the ridge where we cross into the next valley.
Lunch in the rain with a view - who needs a shelter anyway!
The only people we meet on this trail until we are close to Landmannalaugar is the tour group you can see as tiny dots on the trail crossing the plain. And is that sunlight on those distant hills? How can that be, in this rain?
Moss contrasts with rich earth and fascinating landforms. We’ve seen this spectacular golden moss from a distance and assumed it was some kind of reflected sunlight … but no. It is especially bright in contrast to the dullness of the day. Glorious.
The ethereal rain-shrouded hills are like nothing we’ve ever seen before, and such a contrast to the Martian ash plains. Venus perhaps?
The story of this land is writ large if only you knew how to read the language!
Finally we get to the main creek crossing.
I’ve been apprehensive about this crossing since the start of the trip. I’d watched a video of a young couple crossing here, and they did not make it look easy. But they’d crossed at the narrowest (and deepest) spot, when the water was too high and too fast, one of them was very short, and they didn’t link correctly. They’d also crossed at the wrong spot with a steep bank on the opposite side. We don our river sandals and cross, linked together and using one pole each, in fine form without a problem.
On the other side, donning pants and socks that rather amazingly are still dry, despite the bucketing rain.
Crossing a mossy lava field. It’s really important to stick to the tracks. The moss is very fragile and takes decades to recover.
It’s impossible, yet the scenery is even more spectacular!
We skirt Herbjanar fellsvatyn, lingering despite the rain.
And finally, we reach Landmannahellir Huts but – oh no – there is no one about! The heavens have opened and the wind is screaming. A note on the door says they’ll be back in half an hour. We shelter in the lee, glad we won’t have to set up the tent, and true to their words, the owners arrive. Hooray! We pay (always carry cash, even though they have eftpos – Icelandic coverage is way better than in Oz) and have an entire hut with about two dozen beds to ourselves (later, one other couple arrives). Luxury!
A well-appointed kitchen, a heater, and hot chocolate from Geoff’s Emergency stash.
Bliss!