Day 1 - Hellismannaleid: Rjupnavellir to Afangagil

A spectacular, easy introduction to the story of the trek: rivers, waterfalls, ash plains, volcanoes and lava fields. 

View over wide shallow waterfall Fossabrekkur Iceland

The Hellismannaleid is typically a three day hike covering 59 km (36 miles). It’s a quieter walk than most, one of the few wilderness walks left in Europe where you can go without seeing many people - or at least the one hiker who caught the same bus as we did indicated. He said he had walked in many places in Europe but this was one of his favourites because it remained isolated. Suffice to say he quickly scooted on ahead of us and we didn’t see anyone else for over a day! And isolated and wild it is!

The standard Day 1 is to hike 19 km to Afangagil. But our early bus arrived in Rjupnavellir around lunchtime, so we figured we wouldn’t reach Afangagil huts. Instead, we hiked partway (around 13 km) and wild camped outside the park boundary (no wild camping is allowed inside). 

That meant we had a very long second day. To more easily spread the hike, we recommend slow hikers catch a later bus, stay at Rjupnavellir that evening and set off early the next morning.

Back view of hiker with orange pack on dirt track edged with birch trees

The walk leaves the huts on a gentle track. Easy walking in perfect weather. My heart is pounding with anticipation and excitement.

Hiker with orange pacl on dirt track in grassy fiels gazing at Burfell mountain

A hint of things to come, with bare Burfell to the west.

Hiker with orange pack climbing wooden  stile over wire ringlock fence

The track is well signposted, with well-built stiles. After all we’ve heard about Iceland, we can hardly believe the weather. A light breeze, warm sunshine and puffy clouds!

Ytri Ranga river wending through ash plains and grassy field

The Ytri-Ranga river provides a restful soundtrack.

Hiker with orange backpack on grassy riverbank with gorge behind

The colours of the soil, the greens of the vegetation, all so different to Australia’s olive tints and hazy blues.

River with ash plain on far bank and grass on near bank

First glimpse of ash plain - there will be plenty more! We have scarcely begun the walk and already there is a hint of the contrasts we are going to experience.

Wooden way sign with lush grass, river and ash plain beyond.

There is a network of tracks throughout this region and much of Iceland. You could spend a lifetime exploring just this tiny island.

Back view of hiker opening gate on bridge over river Hellismannaleid Track Iceland

Across the bridge to the eastern side of the Ytri-Ranga.

Rivulet cutting through ash plain

We ford several small side streams.

Back view of backpacker on stony ash plain with Hekla volcano beyond

Crossing the first of Hekla's ash plain, with Hekla in the background.

The ash is not what we expected - much coarser, more like fine gravel - so different to the sandy red dust of the arid areas of Oz.

Stark vast ashplain with river and hiker in foreground

The starkness is astonishing. Such irony, that this beauty is partially due to deforestation.

Hiker about to cross river bisecting ash plain

Another stream to cross. The water is shallow and icy, the floor pebbly. Many people suggest neoprene booties, but we find harder-soled sandals more comfortable.

Hiker traversing ashplain Hellismannaleid Track Iceland

Moonscape!

Hiker on gravel with river and tributary in background

The terrain is undulating but not steep. It’s the perfect start to a multiday hike!

Back view of hiker with hill and bizarre lava formations in background

Bizarre volcanic landforms, as if a dragon has pooped on the hillside.

Closeup of pink flowering arctic thyme on stony ash plain

Arctic thyme (Thymus praecox ssp. arcticus)

View of shallow but wide waterfall Fossabrekkur Hellismannaleid Iceland

Descending steeply with wonderful views of Fossabrekkur…

Hiker seated at edge of grassy floodplain with waterfall on opposite side

A perfect spot to pause for a snack.

Closeup of pink flowers of Arctic Riverbeauty Chaemerium latifolium

Artctic Riverbeauty (Chaemerion latifolium)

Back view of hiker skirting river

Skirting close to the river.

Creek cutting deep gorge through stony rocky lavafield

Flat plains, and then you suddenly come across a deep gorge with rushing water.

HIker checking pack in evening light on vast flat ashplain Hellismannaleid Iceland

One more plain to cross - you can see the way markers stretching into the distance.  It's already about 7.30pm.

Tent pitched on gravel amongst rock with hiker seated beside it

As planned, we won’t quite make Afangagil Hut Campground - we’ve walked about 13 km today. But we are not yet in the national park so can wild camp. This is our only wild camp while in Iceland. It has been the best start to a walk imaginable, and we can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

Female hiker  eating dinner on gravel with tent pitched in background

But first, dinner. Bolognese from home – yum!


Previous
Previous

Planning and Tips - A Nine Day Trek Combining the Hellismannaleid, Laugavegur and Fimmvorduhals Trails

Next
Next

Day 2 – Hellismannaleid: Afangagil to Landmannahellir