Civetta Day 1: To Lake Coldai and Rifugio Tissi
Spectacular Lake Coldai
The world class three-day hike along and/or around Civetta was our favourite in the Dolomites… so much so that we returned two years later to complete parts we missed the first time.
The views are magnificent and the variety astonishing. You climb through conifer woodlands with beautiful wildflowers, past serene Lake Coldai and then along the spectacular ‘Wall of Walls’, Civetta’s western face, staying the night at Rifugio Tissi with more views of that Wall. Later, you’ll see alpine meadows ablaze with colour, cross a stark cirque and slip between imposing stone at Forcella delle Sasse, before descending through scree and more wildflower meadows.
Our hike description below is primarily based on our preferred Pecol Loop route but we’ve included a blend of images and descriptions from both our hikes to highlight the variation that might be experienced according to the season, and also differences between routes. For more information on accommodation, transport and hiking the Dolomites in general, see here.
You can start your hike to Rifugio Tissi from either Alleghe or Pecol. If you start in Alleghe you can catch the cable car and/or chair lift to link up with route 564; but the chair lift from Alleghe wasn’t running when we hiked so we followed Path 564 from the cable car before turning south onto Path 556. If starting from Pecol you simply follow 556 from Pecol to Rif. Coldai. Distances and elevation gains are similar if you catch the cable car from Alleghe.
Pecol to Rif. Tissi Elevation and Distance Details
Whether you begin in Pecol or Alleghe, you’ll approach Civetta through beautiful meadows and forest
The wildflowers are extraordinary in spring. Here, Monkshood, Aconitum napellus
And cranesbill, Geranium pratense
Climbing more steeply now as you approach Rif. Coldai
Even here, edging the path, there is a plethora of perennials such as Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria)
…and Alpine Milk Vetch (Astragalus alpinus)
The fantastically situated Rif. Coldai with its inviting sunny patio, delicious cake and excellent coffee. The most leisurely of hikers could even stop here overnight, then at Tissi and again at Vazzoler. Others will continue onwards.
Ten minutes after Rif. Coldai you’ll reach the eponymous Lake. It is spectacular. We hiked both times here in early July just two days apart on the calendar; you can see the difference a late season makes. This first time, the view is breathtaking…
… but swimming amongst the ice would be breathtaking in an altogether different way!
However, when we revisited two years later, the lake was brisk but perfect for swimming and people were happily splashing in the shallows.
As you pass around the lake and over Col Negro di Coldai, you’ll get your first glimpses of Civetta’s majestic face.
Wow. Avoid the higher track: you can see the lower one bottom right. Be guided by conditions: we Aussies felt comfortable in this amount of snow without the minispikes we were carrying, but would be daunted had there been much more. The drop offs to the right are considerable!
Take your time - the snow can be slippery.
And stop often to gaze up: Civetta’s looming walls are marvellous!
Another season, at the exact same time of year, there is hardly any snow left and the trail is straightforward. You can see Rif. Tissi top right, silhouetted just left of Cima di Col Rean. It looks quite close, doesn’t it?
Wonderful alpine species such as Leucanthemopsis alpina even though we are not quite above the treeline: a few stubborn larch dot the base of Civetta’s face.
Soldanella alpina
Pink Potentilla nitida
Spectacular Linaria alpina, a blaze of brightness amongst the scree
To your right, intriguing glimpses of Lago di Alleghe far below.
Time for a drink and a rest! This is looking northeast, back the way we’ve come.
Rif. Tissi is one of those mirage huts. It appears near, but never seems to get any closer as you hike! But at last you’ll reach the turnoff with the last 250m a steep push up a rough track. Gather your breath and glance back at The Wall. Nearly at the hut!
And oh my, what a comfortable hut it is. Absolutely delightful. European Rifugios are not like Australian Mountain Huts where you need to carry all your food and water and bedding. No, these huts may require a YHA Approved inner sleeping bag (some don’t), but that’s it. You will have a bed, a warm fire and a delicious hot dinner. It will be delicious because we are in Italy, who, bless her, does not know how to do bad food.
You will have THIS view from the balcony!
Geoff finds Twisties!
And then we hike up behind the hut to the lookout. The slope is covered in wildflowers; at 2,200m, Rif.Tissi is truly alpine, though there’s another of those hardy larches!
Vertiginous views to Alleghe from the lookout.
And then retire back to the hut for a glass of wine on the balcony to soak in the scenery. Every now and then, you’ll hear a loud crack echoing off the wall as a bit of ice breaks off and crashes down. And if you’re lucky with clear weather, late afternoon sun will light up the walls for an unforgettably glowing spectacle. It has been a fantastic day and there is more to look forward to tomorrow!
