Civetta Day 2: Rif. Tissi - Rif. Vazzoler or Listolade/Alleghe
Rif. Tissi facing the Wall of Walls.
The first time we hike here, there is too much snow for us to complete the circuit and we head down to Alleghe via Listolade this day. Readers daunted by the pass on Day Three can also take the Listolade exit.
The second time we are here, the day’s forecast is for storms in the afternoon. As leisurely hikers, we aren’t confident that we can reach and cross the pass to Pecol by late morning; besides, to rush this walk is completely contrary to our philosophy. We had checked the weather earlier, and our accommodation host in Pecol knows we will be away either one night or two (‘No problem!’). We have already checked with Rif. Vazzoler and there are beds for us should we choose to stay.
Elevation details Rifugio Tissi to Rifugio Vazzoler - mostly downhill and only 5.6km! For more information on accommodation, transport and hiking the Dolomites in general, see here.
And if you did decide to exit to Listolade: it is downhill almost all the way with a further 700 metre elevation loss over the 8.4 kilometres to Listolade from Rif. Vazzoler, so it is very doable in the day. (We have an elevation profile for the section from Rif Vazzoler to Listolade at the end of our Dolomites Hikes Planning Tips post).
We have breakfast (including more excellent espresso coffee for Geoff!) and set off early to beat the forecast storm.
Weaving between large boulders, path 560 follows the base of the wall.
Even at this early hour, cloud is already beginning to build.
The boulders grow, too.
Alpenrose, Rhododendron ferrugineum
Time to don the rain gear!
On our first time, the weather is fine but today the cloud swallows the top of Civetta.
But there are still orchids! Dark Red Helleborine (Epipactis atrorubens)
And Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea)
Once you reach the lower slopes, cows (with bells!) will glance placidly at you as you pass by.
Because, of course, we all need more cowbell!
Wildflowers are everywhere. Plant enthusiasts will take dozens and dozens of pictures. Here, the rare Rhaetian Poppy, Papaver rhaeticum
The scale of Civetta’s western wall is extraordinary, but we are nearing the end.
Gigantic fallen boulders, with yellow violets growing around them.
Just look at it! Wow, that was stuck to the side of Civetta a while ago!
And into the forest, with entirely different flowers. And more cows with bells! The following images continue to be a mixture from both walks, sunny the first time, rainy the second.
We reach Rif. Vazzoler. I have looked through my albums and, although there is not a single image of the Rifugio facade, I find plenty in the ‘Giardino Alpino’, which is typical but slightly annoying. Sorry! Here is a picture of the Rifugio in case you wanted to see it!
Aquilegia atrata scattered throughout the forest and in the Garden.
In the Alpine Garden
I’d seen these in bud in the forest but, thrillingly, this Slipper Orchid (Cypripedium calceolus) is open here!
If this is your second and last day and you are exiting to Listolade, you will continue on past Rif. Vazzoler with views like this before swinging downhill on Path 555. But don’t think this will be just a boring road walk: once again, the verge is chockers with wildflowers.
Road walking, yes, but it is quiet - we don’t see a single car - and just look at those wildflowers!
Salvias, daisies and orchids, so many orchids! I’m in heaven!
And a Fire lily (L. bulbiferum) in full bloom! The 8.4km distance from Rif. Vazzoler to Listolade will pass quickly, we guarantee it, and once there you will be able to sit down in the little cafe with a hot ham and cheese toastie and a glass of wine to wait for the bus.
But perhaps you are spending the afternoon and night in Rif. Vazzoler. Although some reviewers have complaints, we found the hosts friendly and hospitable; they may have changed since we went. This sleeping accommodation is typical of rifugios: blankets and pillows but no top sheet, hence the need for a YHA Travel sleeping bag liner.
Look what is on the bookshelf! As the rain buckets down outside, we play cards and then use the books to identify some of the plants of the day. We are also looking forward to tomorrow: the forecast is similar but not quite as bad, so we are confident that, from here, we will have plenty of time to cross the pass before the storm builds, as would other slower hikers.
